While it is still cold, Spring is firmly here. Some local food businesses are using produce at its peak season to pack in flavour and flair. From spaghetti squash to wild garlic, Switzerland to Japan, all the tastes of Spring can be found in the six square miles of Islington.
Nourished Communities
Located on Upper Street, Nourished Community seems separated from the hustle and bustle of central Islington. This small, blue grocery store represents over 200 independent British growers and producers and aims to create a new food system that is “resilient and contribute[s] responsibly to the communities and environments”.
Jamie, a member of staff in the store, recommends their seasonal produce, all from farmers in Kent, Sussex and Suffolk. They have blood orange juice freshly squeezed in store, asparagus that is thicker than from the supermarket, and spaghetti squash that can be pulled into long pasta-like strands with a fork.
“Our bodies are designed to seasonable food that give us different nutrients throughout the year. Also, going with the seasons makes cooking more fun,” Jamie says.
Address: 263 Upper Street, N1 2UQ
Jumi Cheese
Cheese can also benefit from a seasonal touch. Jumi Cheese, best known for selling one of the mouldiest cheeses in the UK, brings out wild garlic la bouse every spring. This is a thick, brie-style cheese made with double cream with a layer of wild garlic pieces.
This Spring special, like all cheeses in the store, are produced in the Emmental Valley in Switzerland.
Millie, a member of staff, gives me a huge chunk to taste. While it is as creamy as regular brie cheese, the wild garlic adds an interesting crumbly texture. It’s punchy and spicy at first, then finishes with a lingering herby aftertaste. The unique cheese is only available for six weeks, Millie says, and “sells out crazy” every year.
“We only make it when the wild garlic is at its freshest and most perfect,” Millie adds. “It is really, really fresh because of the seasonality. We just try to make cheese with ingredients as fresh as possible.”
When it’s gone, it’s gone. Don’t hesitate if you want to try.
Address: 56 Newington Green, N16 9PX
Quince Bakery
Wild garlic works well in pastry, too. Quince Bakery, which offers a new menu every week, is featuring a wild garlic carrot galette this week. It has used forced rhubarb creatively, from rhubarb marzipan scone to rhubarb crumble tart.
Local farmers provide most of the bakery’s ingredients. Anna Higham, owner of the bakery, thinks their close relationship with the suppliers adds a personal touch to the production process.
“We can help them when they have gluts, and they help us when we’re looking for particular produce,” Anna says. “Knowing the people who grow our ingredients means we respect them more. The ingredient’s specialness is always in our mind as we think about how to incorporate it into the menu.”
The everchanging menu also draws the staff members together. The team develop a list together, with Higham describing it as “one of the most joyful parts of the bakery week”.
Quince Bakery’s weekly menu drops on their Instagram every Tuesday.
Address: 267 New North Road, N1 7AA
Katsute 100
In Japan, people mark the arrival of spring by the first blooming of their national flower: the cherry blossom, or sakura. People gather for picnics and parties under the blossoming trees, in a ritual called hanami (‘flower viewing’).
Cherry blossoms are also a popular ingredient in Japanese desserts. Katsute 100 offers a wide selection of authentic Japanese tea, wine and desserts.
A standout treat is their sakura mochi. Compared to packaged mochi, the natural sweetness of the rice is much stronger. The taste of cherry blossoms is not overpowering, but its slight sourness is offset well by the sweet red bean filling.
There is also a lovely back garden in Katsute 100. It is perfect for you to enjoy your mochi, as well as a view of nature waking up all over Islington.
Address: Passage Apartments, 100 Islington High St, N1 8EG
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