'I visited the Asian bakery specialising in filled bagels - New York style fans must try this texture'

Original published in MyLondon on 21 April 2025

From classic cinnamon buns to French choux, London’s bakery scene is vibrant. Nagare Coffee, which already has two sites in Spitalfields and Carnaby, attempts to make it more diverse by introducing East Asian baked goods in its new site in Bankside. It features not only ‘typical’ East Asian flavours like matcha, but also the distinct texture of East Asian baked goods – chewiness, fluffiness and a mix of both.

Located behind Tate Modern, the café opened on March 21. It is Nagare’s only site that serves home-baked goods. When you enter the café, you will first be welcomed by a splendid display of bakery items ranging from matcha bagels to truffle mushroom honey rolls and sea salt croissants.

Then, your excitement will be calmed by the aesthetic interiors with wood décor. I visited the café on a Thursday morning, and there were solicitors talking about EU laws and holidays in Spain, running groups buying oat lattes, and school kids colouring with their mums.

Nagare Coffee was established in Spitalfields market in January 2023. Dora Lau, the café founder who is from Hong Kong, explained why she opened the new site: “Nagare is not a chain, and we want each site to be different. We know a talented baker who is also from Hong Kong, so we decided to serve baked goods!”

I ordered a ‘Pearl 40 Bagel’, a dough replica of its first signature drink in Spitalfields market. Unlike Jewish or New York bagels, it is so chewy and elastic that it can slowly rebound to its original shape after being squeezed.

The filling is rolled in the dough rather than placed in the middle like sandwiches. There are mochi and crumble infused with coffee and jasmine, which is slightly bitter and more floral than green or black tea. If you have never had East Asian bagels, which are commonly seen in Japan, Taiwan and Hong Kong, this bagel can give you a full experience of their texture and flavours.

I also had a mentaiko mochi sea salt croissant, which Dora recommended. The sea salt croissant, a brioche-like Japanese milk bread roll, a filled with a generous stack of mochi and mentaiko like a hot dog. Mentaiko is a Japanese seafood paste consisting of spicy pollock roe, so the whole bun features a harmonious balance of umami and sweetness.

The mochi makes it not overly spicy, while the mentaiko makes it moist. Layers of tastes and textures exploded on my taste buds, and it is a must-order for anyone who loves sushi.

“However, it is too fishy for some locals. Once a customer just had one bite and threw the whole croissant away,” said Dora bitterly.

It is not easy for the team to introduce East Asian flavours while catering for the local appetite. Since opening last month, Dora said the majority of customers have been those who already knew their café or were familiar with the Asian styles. Locals who tried their baked goods tended to order the matcha cream bun, which looks like maritozzi and fits the current trend of matcha.

Sourcing of ingredients is another challenge. It is difficult to find flour for soft or chewy baked goods rather than classic European puff pastries, as well as common East Asian ingredients like taro and purple sweet potatoes. It took a long time for the team to find affordable food suppliers, but Dora remains hopeful and will not give up. She said: “We are experimenting with fusion flavours, so the locals will not find them completely strange.

“For example, Hojicha (a Japanese roasted green tea) is not as popular as matcha. However, after we launched it in our other cafes, it has become more popular. I know we just need time and patience.”

Nagare Coffee is not the only Asian bakery in London, but it features flavours and textures rarely found in other parts of the city. Diversity in London’s bakery world is limitless.